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 1356 / 1356 doubler 
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
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So I think my plan is to put a cross member 2x2 tube under the doubler using the original skid plate mount holes. Then use a shackle or shock bushing to take the load off the trans.

I had wanted to use a short shaft and carrier bearing to raise the drive line but I don't see a really good way to accomplish that. Now I think I will just go with a 1350 DC out of the t-case on both front and rear. that will allow me to rotate the pinion up and also move the u-joints back slightly.

thoughts

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June 30th, 2015, 12:02 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
So the second reduction unit is inside the shiny machined part?

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June 30th, 2015, 12:15 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
Big Ed wrote:
So the second reduction unit is inside the shiny machined part?

yep,,, it is a set of gears from the same t-case that sits behind it 2.7:1 BW1356

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June 30th, 2015, 12:54 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
drkhrs925 wrote:
yep,,, it is a set of gears from the same t-case that sits behind it 2.7:1 BW1356


That's what I was thinking, will give you more finesse on the trail.

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June 30th, 2015, 7:25 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
Ah yes the age old problem of, I-extended-my-t-case-and-now-my-front-driveshaft-hits-the-xmember :mrgreen:

This happened to me when I first SAS'd because the front end had a lot of droop. The driveshaft only hit a little bit so I was just able to notch the xmember a little and re-weld for strength.

With the doubler it wasn't happening, so I ended up ditching the stock trans xmember and building a new one, moved back quite a bit, roughly center of the range box (203 in my case). From it I built forward to the trans and backwards to the t-case.

From the looks of yours, I'd go with your second idea of a DC on the front and then notch the xmember if need be.

One other thought, though may not matter with your stiffy leaf springs... 1350 joints don't have as much "travel" as you'd think, I wanna say its like 22*? 1410 has significantly more. It's a slight problem on my front driveshaft so if I were starting over I'd go 1410.

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July 1st, 2015, 7:03 am
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
1410 us quite the price jump and if there's one thing Dave's truck doesn't have, it's flex.

If it wasn't for the low.low.low range I would stay 1310.

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July 1st, 2015, 8:06 am
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
For now the driveshaft does not hit the cross member at full droop. The drive angle is about the same as before because I have indexed the T-case up a few degrees to keep the same angle as before and increase the clearance. I am thinking about going a notch more in fact.

I am already running 1350's front and rear but not as a DC. I didn't notice before but looking closer at the angles I discovered I have had the wrong setup in front for years. The reason I have always had front driveline vibration is that the angle of the pinion is setup for a DC and I'm running a strait shaft. guess I neglected that in the SAS. I'll have to look into the 1410. I plan to have a discussion with south bay driveline today for price.

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July 1st, 2015, 9:01 am
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
My front driveshaft. The one piece did some light rubbing at max flex only, the main reason I did this is because it was too exposed before.
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July 1st, 2015, 9:33 am
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
poor response from south bay driveline. no return call for pricing

any other suggestions

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July 6th, 2015, 8:41 am
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
If you want good service call driveline service of sac. I ordered one on a Thursday afternoon and had it the next afternoon. They also own the one in stockton. They know there stuff and it was the only place who would give me pointers on what to get. Seemed like everyone else wanted to just fill an order, even if it was the wrong thing.


July 6th, 2015, 9:27 am
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
You don't want to overbuild the driveshaft either. I remember a guy on Pirate building a driveshaft with really big u joints, and 1/4" wall tubing. I asked him what would be the weak link now, you don't want it to be something internal, expensive, and harder to get to. He called me an idiot and kept doing what he was doing. Next thing I know he comes back from a wheeling trip with a broken Dana 60 rear ring and pinion, and didn't see any connection to his giant driveshaft. It went right over his head, still called me an idiot.

With my low gearing I can twist the stock tubing thickness, did it twice. To me it's the perfect solution, I carry a spare. No damage to yokes or u joints. I can transfer them over to another one from the wrecking yard. I went around the yard with a tape measure, and found one that all I have to do is cut an inch off the male spline end. So it costs me about $42 to get another spare. I don't twist them in normal trail driving either. Both times it happened when I had a full load of green oak, and tried to pull too much with the truck.

I hooked on to a tree that I thought I could pull out enough to cut up and load into the trailer, well it was "one" with the Forest and wasn't moving. The front wheels didn't have much weight on them, so they didn't grab. So all that torque went to the rear wheels, with so much weight on them they grabbed and there went the driveshaft tube. So needless to say, I'm more careful with what I pull now. If something's gonna fail, and sometimes it will. This is less damage, cheaper and easier to fix.

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July 6th, 2015, 4:48 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
second for Stockton driveline. I used pro shaft which I found through amazon. Good but not local. The box just got here so I can't speak to it's quality yet.

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July 6th, 2015, 5:20 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
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South bay riverine does it again. Price was the same as anywhere for custom shats. Should be plenty strong even against the rocks. All spicer paertsfor both

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July 10th, 2015, 1:28 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
Nice! They sure do look pretty. You got a plate style yoke for the front of that BW case or what? 1350 or 1330 joints?

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July 10th, 2015, 2:57 pm
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Post Re: 1356 / 1356 doubler
1" difference? Sounds like 1 trail Spain should cover both?
If you don't mind, how much?

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July 10th, 2015, 3:27 pm
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