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 Boom Boom (aka Business Class) 
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Joined: August 9th, 2014, 11:21 am
Posts: 112
Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Fords do appear to be geared on the cable end, and the guy looks to have those adapters/replacements too... from my understanding, and looking at replacement cables on line, the cables for TH400's like I have are just simple cables. The gearing for setting ratios is internal to the transfer case or transmission. That guy also sells those, but it seemed like way more work than it was worth.

A quick google image search for Chevy speedo cable and Ford speedo cable appears to corroborate that.


April 30th, 2015, 11:54 am
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Joined: August 9th, 2014, 11:21 am
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Well, it's been a while since I posted anything on my truck.

I haven't done much other than try an ill-fated e-fan conversion.

For now though I have a new project: a 14 bolt full float swap. :D

I just picked up this 1st generation 14 from a very nice guy, Andy, in Campbell. It's a 4.56 with stock posi. Everything feels smooth and he said that the bearings and seals are recently new. He'd put it in a J-10 but decided 4.56 wasn't the gearing he wanted so he swapped his only axle back in pretty quickly.

So, the plan is to match my 10-bolt with a new 4.56 gear set, put some discs on and get rolling asap!

The perches are SO close to the right width, but I'm afraid I'll have to remove them and put on new ones. :-/

None the less, I'm very excited to finally have a place to start from finally.

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July 31st, 2015, 9:39 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
My back hurts looking at that thing in the back of your burb...

Sounds like a good find though.

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August 1st, 2015, 7:30 pm
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Location: Hercules, Ca
Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Lol i just lifted mine a while ago. She heavy but not d60 heavy.

Nice score on the 14b. Disc brakes are easy. I have part numbers for everything including brake lines if youre interested. The k20 calipers are pretty cheap along with pads and rotors through autozone.

The 1 ton perches were spread farther than 3/4 tons so that may be the difference. Either way those perches are set for 2 joint driveshafts, not CV.


August 1st, 2015, 8:54 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
oatmeal wrote:
Lol i just lifted mine a while ago. She heavy but not d60 heavy.

Nice score on the 14b. Disc brakes are easy. I have part numbers for everything including brake lines if youre interested. The k20 calipers are pretty cheap along with pads and rotors through autozone.

The 1 ton perches were spread farther than 3/4 tons so that may be the difference. Either way those perches are set for 2 joint driveshafts, not CV.


After reading a bit I'm thinking about going with the larger piston, high GVWR truck calipers up front and moving my fronts to my rear for the conversion. Seems like this is one way to even the ratio out while keeping the original proportioning valve. I found some loaded brakes on RockAuto that seem like the right ones under a '77 K30. Trying to get confirmation though...

Funny thing about the perches... with my shackle flip in the rear my driveshaft seems to have rotated to the point where it is now set for a CV properly, not the 2 joint. Either way I'm going to have to remove those perches though.

I was thinking about going to Royal Brass to get brake lines made that would reach all the way to the junction box, just so I don't have to bend new hard lines or cut and flare the old ones. I see Offroad Design has these but for $90 I think I can do better locally.


August 3rd, 2015, 9:26 am
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
After reading a bit I'm thinking about going with the larger piston, high GVWR truck calipers up front and moving my fronts to my rear for the conversion. Seems like this is one way to even the ratio out while keeping the original proportioning valve. I found some loaded brakes on RockAuto that seem like the right ones under a '77 K30. Trying to get confirmation though...

Funny thing about the perches... with my shackle flip in the rear my driveshaft seems to have rotated to the point where it is now set for a CV properly, not the 2 joint. Either way I'm going to have to remove those perches though.

I was thinking about going to Royal Brass to get brake lines made that would reach all the way to the junction box, just so I don't have to bend new hard lines or cut and flare the old ones. I see Offroad Design has these but for $90 I think I can do better locally.[/quote]


I would avoid that myself. Although your truck is a bit bigger i would say the brake setup i have now would stop that thing great. Were probably not that far off in weight because of my tires but if i can stop real well with 40s then you should be fine. My k20 brakes are pretty damn big. Very close to my dana 60 brakes which are big. Its apparent that i need to swap over to the k30 master cylinder though...these big brakes need a lot of juice. Your stock MS is going to keep up with the brakes but the throw of the pedal will be longer. I think the best setup would be 1 ton MS and a proportioning valve in the truck so you could change it on the fly if needed. The nice thing about the k20 stuff is its all figured out where youll be on your own with anything else.

Since you have some time before you throw that axle under the truck we could meet up next month or late this month at hollister and you can drive my truck. One stab of the brakes will tell you everything you need to know lol.

The perches are just a PIA. No way around them. They have to be set under the truck with all the weight on the axle and a floor jack to tilt the pinion up, then you weld them in. It may be worth it to see what a rear end shop would charge for that since its very common. It might be cheap but probably not lol. The price may outweigh doing it on your own. I did it by myself and arc welded them on haha.

Meh on the brakelines. Im not a fan of hardline for the flaring involved. I think some auto part places will lend you the tool but i think its a waste of time. I bought ORD brakelines cause i was ignant to the fact that i could buy lines and assemble them myself. That said they are badass brake lines lol. Personally if i was going to do it again i would do all Earl's brakelines from summit. Cheap, braided SS and they work great. I used earls for my rear end and i couldnt be happier. The lines for the rearend were about $50 all said and done. The other nice part is that i can carry spare lines since theyre cheap and custom made.


August 3rd, 2015, 9:58 am
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Actually, the sooner I can get this done the better. I've got LeMons work to do before our Sept. 12th race, and I'd like to have this out of the way by then.

Southbay Driveline just told me they didn't think I'd need to go full CV with just a 4" lift. Also said they could re-use my existing hardware and just replace the tube. Cheap way to go if that's the case... $150 + the tube. Otherwise looking at $400-$500 for CV version.

What brake code do you have? I've got the JB7 which is the second highest, so I'm thinking my master cylinder will be okay. Proportioning for disc/disc is the only thing I'm worried about (I think). Just dropped an email to the guys at ORD to get their input on the caliper size thing since they'd mentioned it on their site as an option. Definitely going to look into the Earl's lines from Summit, thanks for that heads-up.


August 3rd, 2015, 12:49 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
aaronvogel wrote:
Actually, the sooner I can get this done the better. I've got LeMons work to do before our Sept. 12th race, and I'd like to have this out of the way by then.

Southbay Driveline just told me they didn't think I'd need to go full CV with just a 4" lift. Also said they could re-use my existing hardware and just replace the tube. Cheap way to go if that's the case... $150 + the tube. Otherwise looking at $400-$500 for CV version.

What brake code do you have? I've got the JB7 which is the second highest, so I'm thinking my master cylinder will be okay. Proportioning for disc/disc is the only thing I'm worried about (I think). Just dropped an email to the guys at ORD to get their input on the caliper size thing since they'd mentioned it on their site as an option. Definitely going to look into the Earl's lines from Summit, thanks for that heads-up.



Yup 4 inch lift is really the max for 2 joint drive shafts.

Jb7 is what you want. Jb8 is for hydro boost. The master cylinder will be ok....but not the best. I didnt do anything with my MS just to try it out and its still fine as far as proportion goes, i just want to supply more fluid to the brakes faster (1 ton master). Youll be going from big ass drums to big ass brakes so i wouldnt imagine there to be a huge difference. They say the front should do 70% of the braking and i think its real close to that. Front end dives like normal when you plow the brakes on.

If you dont plan on hauling a tandem trailer with no brakes then you really dont need anything more than what the k20 offers. If the k20 brakes were marginal id say go bigger but there worlds better than the drums. Like i said if they can stop my 40s when im doing 65 down the freeway then thats damn good.


August 3rd, 2015, 2:08 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Parts are starting to roll in for the swap! Think I have nearly everything. I did end up going with the JB7 calipers from Autozone that I'll throw on the front, because I found out I'd only put JB5 calipers on the front when I'd replaced the stock ones last year. So those will be going to the rear. According to ORD and BillaVista that's a good way to go.

I picked up the brackets, spring perches and shock mounts from Ruff Stuff. Super fast coming from Loomis and seemed competitive or cheaper on prices for the same stuff as others. Went to Royal Brass to get brake lines made because I couldn't find the right ones from Summit, and I didn't want to order from ORD, though I think I should have gone that route as they were actually more for stainless from Royal Brass. But they're in my hands right now and I'm impatient.

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I've got 10-bolt 4.56 gears coming tomorrow, thought I may or may not put those in over the weekend, depending on how well the swap goes.

Unfortunately the crossover steering is a little bit on hold as I found out I might not be able to keep my sway bar, which would be a bummer, if I switch to crossover.


August 5th, 2015, 4:25 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Nice! I pulled my sway bar and didnt notice a difference in handling. Surprising for how big it is but id take it off knowing what I know now. Does wonders for flex.


August 5th, 2015, 4:31 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Yeah you guys have front leaves, you dont need a sway bar :goodfinger:

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August 5th, 2015, 5:06 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
oatmeal wrote:
Nice! I pulled my sway bar and didnt notice a difference in handling. Surprising for how big it is but id take it off knowing what I know now. Does wonders for flex.

I would agree. My 85 k20 ate the bushings so pulled the bar to stop the rattling, literally could not notice a difference with a 4" lift and H2 takeoffs so I never bothered to reinstall

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August 5th, 2015, 5:58 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
I have the ord disconnect kit and when I go back and forth between connected and disconnected I notice a huge difference! I like having it for the road, so I have to balance benefits of crossover steering vs sway bar.


August 5th, 2015, 9:11 pm
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Pulled my sway bar when I lifted it in 08. Never looked back.

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August 6th, 2015, 6:01 am
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Post Re: Boom Boom (aka Business Class)
Have you gotten really stuck with the steering yet? Itll happen at some point. Then youll come home and order crossover stuff right after haha. I got stuck with mine the first time out and if you dont have a winch on the rear, you get to stay there until someone comes along and can pull you out. Not fun!


August 6th, 2015, 6:49 am
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